Beginning Sept. 1, the European Union has officially banned TPO (trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide), a chemical widely used in gel nail polish to create a glossy, quick-dry finish.
Why TPO Was Banned
TPO has been classified by EU regulators as “carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction.”
Research suggests potential links to fertility problems and other reproductive health risks, though most of the evidence comes from animal studies.
“The European Union is banning it out of caution,” said dermatologist Dr. Hannah Kopelman.
“Even though we don’t yet have large-scale human studies proving harm, the potential risks were enough to warrant stricter regulation.”
Impact on Nail Salons and Industry
Until now, TPO was restricted to professional use in concentrations of up to 5%.
The new rules ban its sale, marketing, and use in all cosmetics with no grace period for salons or distributors to sell remaining stock.
Importers and beauty professionals have criticized the short timeline, arguing it leaves little room to replace supplies with TPO-free alternatives.
The ban does not extend to dental products, where TPO is still used as a photoinitiator in fillings.
Risks Beyond TPO
TPO isn’t the only safety concern for gel nail enthusiasts.
UV curing lamps: Podiatrists warn that the UV or LED light used to harden gels may increase skin cancer risks over time.
Nail damage: Filing or thinning the nail plate before gel application can weaken natural nails.
Infections: Allowing gels to “grow out” without maintenance can cause small gaps where moisture accumulates, creating a breeding ground for Pseudomonas bacteria—also known as “greenies,” which turn nails green or blue. While usually mild, the infection can be serious for people with weak immune systems.
Contrast With U.S. Rules
Unlike the EU, the United States has no regulation on TPO in cosmetics. Consumers in the U.S. who want to minimize risk are advised to:
Request TPO-free gel products at salons.
Space out manicures to reduce cumulative exposure.
Use a protective base coat.
Ensure nail applications are done in well-ventilated areas.
Growing Consumer Awareness
More than 100 million U.S. women use nail products, making the EU’s decision a spotlight moment for beauty safety regulations.
The move also highlights broader differences: the EU has banned or restricted hundreds of ingredients that remain legal in the U.S., from food additives like BHA and BHT to cosmetic preservatives.
